2024 June 29th Days 92 and 93, A mad dash to Milford Haven. Part 1 to Dublin and the options.

A lot more text than usual in this post, even with the trip split into 2 parts. Few pics due to the weather and night. Needs to be read after the previous post.

Timings are generally from memory, time stamps on emails etc., at the time of writing my navigation log is on the boat along with the Dongle security device for the navigation software and I didn't mess around downloading the log from the chart plotter before I left the boat.

I got about 3.5 hours sleep and was away before 04:00 on Saturday punching the tide under engine before the tide turned south as I rounded the outer island (St Patrick's, I wonder how many of them there are in Irish waters?), there was no wind and visibility was very poor, not what I was hoping for with loads of pot buoys to avoid. Fortunately it improved as I reached the biggest concentration. To be replaced with light rain and drizzle that would remain for most of the day. 😞 The end of June and I was in full winter gear from Dublin on, fleece lined trousers, wind proof fleece, duck down gilets, insulated boots and full waterproofs. Fortunately my French made fisherman's salopettes do keep me dry, unlike the high tech, expensive ones I have had previously.

Passing inside Lambay Island. The small rubber boat surprised
me, four big men aboard fishing at 05:36, before I reached for the
camera two of them were fishing standing up!

I was off Dublin Bay at 08:00 and there was no news from the hospital, when a friend finally got through at 09:00 there was still no definitive news, possibly another broken hip but the senior staff would be reviewing later in the morning, the junior doctors strike was slowing everything down.

Approximate track in the absence of the
actual one.

Now I was in a bit of a quandary, I was past the south end of Dublin Bay with a few hours of tide left, I could go into Sorrento Bay and wait for news and perhaps get some sleep and leave on the evening tide if necessary but that would be a bit of a cop out achieving little and wasting the last of this tide, also possibly a tide at the other end, more of which later.

I could go into the marina at Dun Laoghaire (Dublin Bay) or, if they had no space go back to Howth, both the marinas are a long way from the airport and in the EU, at best I would get home overnight on Saturday or early Sunday leaving the boat in a difficult and expensive location (Eire is expensive these days and these are premium sites). I decided that would not achieve much, if she was let out of hospital my sister would cover until I got home, if they kept her in they would be looking after her, although she would not like the food - The Horton in Banbury has excellent people and facilities but poor food and rubbish parking, they also happen to be the go to place for hip surgery. 

So I decided to press on, but which way? Going along the Irish coast would not achieve a great deal and if the then current forecast was right (it wasn't) I could get stuck further down with few options for a safe haven or even somewhere to anchor. 

Newlyn was tempting but its was an awful long way, they have few spaces in the marina and it would take longer.

So it had to be Wales, Fishguard was ruled out despite a good rail link (but a long ride home) because there is no marina and it is exposed to the northerly winds forecast, Holyhead might be quicker by sea but the marina got trashed a few years ago, is in a sad state, it would be a very long train ride and I have never been there or through some tricky waters off Anglesey. Pwllheli seemed no better. So Milford Haven was the place to go, there are two marinas although they can get full, several places where a buoy can be rented also I have a few contacts in the area who might find me somewhere if all else failed, hopefully short of leaving the boat at anchor which would cause all sorts of problems, not least where to leave the dinghy.

I already had a route planned for Sorrento Bay to Milford for the following day so it was a quick redo for a different start point and time whilst I continued south, still under engine, heading for the passage through the offshore banks between Codling Bank and India Bank, a route I have taken several times before; following a trodden path is always a good idea if you are tired or under stress.

The  weather chart down loads at 08:30 were in general agreement and different from the previous evening but it was a difficult situation for forecasters and computers with a shallow low over Ireland moving east and dissipating, timing was always going to be an issue but I was a little surprised as to the error in wind strength that was to follow. 

Essentially the wind should fill in from the SW, back to the S then quickly veer to the N or NW. Looking at the domestic forecasts from the UK Met office for various places along the Irish coast plus the ECMWF and UK Metoffice hi-res models the change to NW or N should happen about 14:30 and be F3-4. Very good news as, pushing just a bit, with that I could fly the spinnaker and make good time under sail and be comfortable. Alas that was not to be, although I was to make even better time, although not quite enough to make a big difference.

Click here for part 2.

2024 June 28th Day 91 Ardglass to The Skerries and "It's like déjà vu all over again".

The forecasts were a little equivocal but generally showed the wind decreasing from F5 and from the NW. I had planned to leave lunchtime and go to Dundalk Bay and then on to Dublin on Saturday but with the wind already down from F7 to F5 considerably earlier than forecast and the sea not looking rough, I decided to leave at 08:00 with the wind in the marina light from the NE. Outside the harbour the wind was F3-4 from the NW, that gradually increased to F5 and I was making fine progress until not long after leaving the wind started to back and I was close hauled but making good a course that would take me to the Skerries, quite a way but certainly doable by evening.

The wind started to back again in the afternoon and by a little after 15:00 it was approximately SSW and almost on the nose, I had three options; tack and head for Dundalk Bay, but that was now almost as far as the Skerries, second beat on to the Skerries and arrive well after dark and struggle getting to Dublin as an early or very late start would be needed for the tide. Or third to put on the engine.

Wanting to press on and not miss favourable winds the next day and to get south as quick as was sensible because of easterly winds promised (which did not turn up) I put on the engine, as it turned out a very good choice. I arrived at The Skerries at 20:00 with a Beef Bourguignon ready to eat once I was anchored.

"It's like déjà vu all over again." [Yogi Berra]

I hardly had time to finish it and a sun downer before a phone call; a repeat of last years second cruise, my wife was calling to say she had fallen and was in hospital (no she does not 🍷) tests were still being done (and were still not completed at mid night when her friend left) and it was not known if she would be kept in or sent home. If the latter she would probably need more help than her friends in the village could reasonably give. 

I spent until 23:30 telling relations etc., organising and planning as best I could. My sister volunteered to come up to Oxfordshire from Somerset on Sunday if my wife was sent home and I said I would be in Milford Haven on Monday or Tuesday at the latest if she was kept in or home probably earlier if I flew back from Dublin - always try and over deliver in these situations!

There was no point in staying where I was, so it would be an 04:00 start next day to get the first of the south going tide and hopefully find out what was happening before getting to Dublin so I could make a sensible decision as to the best option.

46 miles in 12 hours

What happened next.

2024 June 24th Days 88 - 90 Ballyhome Bay to Ardglass

An 05:20 start to reach Donaghadee Sound as the tide turned south, I was sailing as soon as I was out of the sound until approaching Ardglass.  The timing was good as I carried a little tide the short distance down Belfast Lough and entered the sound at slack water, or as slack as it gets, at the southern end it just switches almost instantaneously.

Donaghadee Sound at "slack" water.

Exiting Donaghadee Sound. 

The route from Bangor through the sound.

With the northerly wind is was a dead run for much of the way and a little too strong for the cruising chute as a "storm" spinnaker although towards the end I could have carried it but decided not to as the wind was quite variable.

Facebook post: I really, really dislike this mode, more specifically the agro setting it up with a 150% headsail, but the wind is gusting above what, these days, I consider a safe max for the cruising chute from the pole. But here I am on a dead run in F4-5 having just gone through Donaghadee Sound, but it is better than beating against a F5. Hopefully I’ll be at Ardglass fairly early this afternoon.

Note: for a downhaul I am using the spinnaker guy, this keeps the pole aft,
using the normal down haul it would be pulled forward, the sail would not set
properly and it would induce more roll. 

Lighter winds on the last leg no longer running, much better!

A narrow entrance, be sure to stay inside the laterals and
well outside of the cardinal mark on the approach.

And keep close to the pontoon if going to the back of it, more
work to get on to but more turning space when you leave.

I was on a berth at Ardglass just short of 13:26 with plenty of time to re-store, to leave the next day (Wednesday) but it was clear that this would not be a good idea with the wind forecast to initially very light then turning to the south and fairly brisk. As I had a lot of laundry needing doing I decided to stay put and sort that as the next chance will hopefully be Newlyn. I refuelled immediately before a much needed shower - no point in getting smelly from handling diesel and getting up a sweat after the shower!

34 miles in 8 hours.

The marina at low tide. When full screen it

works better slowed down a bit.

Thursday was a non-starter with winds forecast to be up to F7 later in the day, the forecast at the time of writing (Thursday lunch time) is not that positive for Friday:

Lough Foyle to Carlingford Lough - Strong wind warning

24 hour forecast: Southwesterly 4 to 6 veering westerly 5 to 7, occasionally gale 8 in north, decreasing 4 or 5 later. Slight or moderate, becoming rough in north, and occasionally very rough in far north. Rain or showers. Good, occasionally poor at first and moderate later.

Outlook for the following 24 hours: West 4 or 5, occasionally 6 at first, becoming variable 2 to 4. Mainly slight or moderate, but rough at first in far north and occasionally smooth later in south. Showers then fair. Good.

But the forecast models show that winds will probably be OK from late morning so the current plan is to leave then and sail to Dundalk Bay which should be OK for a short overnight stop as the brief northerly wind should only be a few knots, Dundalk would give a good start to get to The Skerries in the forecast light winds on Saturday. If that does not work a very late arrival at The Skerries (a 10 hour run at 4 knots) or an overnighter to the Dublin area. 

After that the wind should be generally favourable but rather brisk at times through Tuesday, the main problem might be finding somewhere to park overnight on Sunday when the forecast is for wind to briefly go the the NE at 15 knots, at this point there is no point in over thinking that as things are likely to change, but as a fall back there is always Howth or Dun Laoghaire (Dublin).

I took the enforced stop in warm weather (what a relief from the cold, thankfully it was warm and not very hot) to do some cleaning and do a couple of jobs.

Scrubbing the hull.

Despite some work in Stromness my best speed was still low and getting worse and, as well as I could calculate with infrequent engine use until Tobermory, the fuel consumption has steadily increased. The port side was regressing quickly and I spent over an hour on it before warping the boat to the finger on the other side of the bay. With easier access to the starboard to the skeg and rudder than at Stromness, this is what I found:

Facebook post: 3 coats of Seajet top of the range “Emperor “ in July 2023 “good for “up to” two years”, power wash in March and another coat, part scrubbed in the water in Stromness and this is what it looks like now. No wonder speed is down [and fuel consumption up] 🤬🤬🤬. Not impressed.

I spent a couple of hours cleaning the starboard side but still could not get all of it off, the problem being weed etc. was strongly attached and the "Scubis" cleaner is intended to remove slime and dead stuff. It was hard work.

I managed to achieve this on the skeg, the keel is untouched, the
rest I did what I reasonably could.

Hopefully it was worth the effort.

Fore hatch leak

I have been chasing minor leaks for a long time, the only remaining one was very minor from rain - just a drip now and then, and not much worse when taking waves over the bow but it seemed worth the effort and turned out to be about 7 hours work that helped pass the time.

The wood frame removed and a seemingly minor
issue bottom left.

But on closer inspection the section over one of
the hinges was loose, I suspect not properly secured
when the hatch was modified and new hinges fitted.

I carry an epoxy / fibreglass repair kit, epoxy glue, etc., so securing this was straightforward. It took longer to reprofile this and the frame to be a snug fit. 

It was also clear that there was quite a lot of "give" between the fibreglass hatch and the wood frame it only being secured in the 4 corners and with a pair of machine screws a third of the way along the sides. A couple of the blind holes for nuts used to secure the plastic "window" to hide in were not deep enough forcing a gap between the frame and hatch, those I deepened and I added a second pair of machine screws right through on the side, plus one in the centre of the front and a couple of screws on the back.

One problem is that I had less wide rubber strip than I thought so there is only a narrow strip along the back so its not fully sealed at the aft corners, hopefully any rain will drain forward through the drainage gutters and tubes. A wave over the front is likely to let some water in until I can get hold of more, the small chandlery here does not stock it. 

As an aside, the double sided tape used to attach this type of strip is normally a waste of time, silicone sealant (not glue) does a better job. 

The frame varnished and refitted to the hatch and the hatch to the boat.

Click for the Skerries.

2024 June 22nd Days 85 - 87 Bagh na Doirline to Druimyeon Bay then Bangor

Saturday morning:

The wind went round to the NW overnight making the anchorage a little uncomfortable, I was anchored well out as there were four other boats in the anchorage, I could have gone further in but single handed I prefer not to have boats behind me, it can be difficult to then get out as I have to be at the bow to raise the anchor and the boat will drift down wind (and / or tide) potentially into another boat. So as the wind was light and the tide good I made a quick hop around the north of the Island to a better protected anchorage in Druimyeon Bay.

Looking back at the Bagh na Doirline anchorage.

An interesting place to park your RV, on a ruined jetty at
the extreme north of Gigha.

Lots of boats in Ardminish Bay, the most popular stop on Gigha,
if you don't need the facilities, Druimyeon Bay is in my opinion
to be preferred.

Druimyeon Bay anchorage.

4 miles in 1 hour

The weather forecast for the next few days is not hopeful with headwinds, mainly light or moderate except perhaps on Tuesday  / Wednesday. And more hopefully tonight; I try and avoid overnight sailing, not because of the dark - except for the avoidance of pot buoys and often the cold, that is pleasant and even easier - but because of the length of time that it takes me to recover and to recharge my sleep bank, it is definitely harder than it was a few years ago.

However the window for westerly, or even a north westerly wind, has expanded since yesterdays forecast, now it looks to be turning westerly at c20:00 and to be favourable for most if not all of trip to Browns Bay, NI although on the down side the 07:00 forecast the sea North Channel is to be "smooth or slight, occasionally moderate", but that is not a major problem although rough would be around The Mull of Kintyre.

If I leave this evening there is a reasonable chance to make Browns Bay (Larne) in 12 - 13 hours, with Red Bay (further north) as an alternate if the doing is slow, and Bangor a possibility if I feel fit enough and the forecast southerly wind is no stronger than forecast and does not arrive early. I would then have Monday to recover and perhaps re-store. Then the tide south from Bangor through Donaghadee Sound is favourable from c 08:00 on Tuesday and 50 minutes later on Wednesday, allowing a reasonable start time an hour before.

Scenarios for a night crossing, calculated by the navigation
software and tabulated for reference, one of the times at
the corner of the TSS should match the actual and gives me
the course to steer without having to start up the PC in
the middle of the night. It also shows the best times to leave.

I have diesel for well over 250 miles but prefer to sail so if the forecasts do not change it looks like an evening start.

Saturday evening.

I left at 19:00 with  a southerly wind F4-5, with the domestic forecast predicting the wind should veer to the NW by c 20:30, then when I refreshed it 30 minutes later, it said 21:30 ☹️ so I was motoring for longer than anticipated and making a lot less than the 5 knots I had planned for the trip down the east coast of Gigha due to the head wind, the choppy sea and the crud on the hull. About halfway to the Mull of Kintyre the wind backed to the SE! This actually helped as the sea got calmer due to the shelter from the Mull.

On the revised time schedule, almost to the minute, the wind quickly veered to the NW at F4, being late to get round the Mull at or before slack water I kept the engine running but motor-sailed with the main and the genoa with one reef. Shortly after I picked up the strong S going tide and was making 8 knots, the engine and sails together generating enough power to over come the drag from the weed on the hull so I could make 6 knots through the water.

With this boost I got to the end of the TSS a little ahead of schedule, switched off the engine and rounded the Mull in good order. The Chute went up for a couple of hours but had to come down as the wind dropped and the engine went on, 20 minutes later the wind was back and up when the chute, but I should have waited because the wind kept increasing and within 10 minutes I was taking in down in 18 knots, quite a bit over the limit for the sail. I continued under sail for a while but had to put the engine on again as with lack of wind I was likely to be pushed north into the TSS. Half way over I was sailing again but after the previous problems I was reluctant to put the chute up and waited for almost an hour before doing so.

Off Red Bay the tide was running north faster than I could sail and I was heading almost W when heading S, so on went the engine again. I started sailing again until past “The Maidens” (pics to follow), then the wind disappeared completely and I motored on to the anchorage off Bangor arriving at 10:00.

A large, 270m IIRC, cruise liner heading for Belfast @ 03:55.

Approaching "The Maidens".

"The Maidens" 6 miles NNE of Larne @ 07:10.

Dinner got a little complicated, I had started prep for 2 portions of Chicken curry, then found that the chicken was off, smelling really bad; it was well within the sell by date but there was a small hole in the packaging, so I ended up with spag bol.

The Ballyholme Bay anchorage is quite popular with boats on
passage who don't want to pay for the marina, and as a Sunday
lunch spot.

Monday was a rest day but I spent much of it working on the boat.

With the strong southerly wind a lot of boats came

north on Monday, most arriving late afternoon on

the last of the tide through Donaghadee Sound. 

Most went to the marina but 3 came to the

anchorage within an hour, now there are four

of us, 2 Brits, 1 Irish and 1 Norwegian.  I think

all are single handed.

Ardglass on Tuesday and I hope that, with all the boats heading north, there will be a berth available, if not it is going to be a long sail to a safe anchorage and tinned food 🙁

Click here for Ardglass.

2024 June 21st Day 84, Eilean Dubh to Gigha

The wind was very light when I woke up so I decided to head for Gigha, if the tides behaved themselves I should be able to complete the short 20 mile hop before the tide turned adverse at 11:00 and it would shorten the leg to Ireland.

I was away at 07:00 and shortly afterward the rain started and the headwind steadily increased to the F3-5 creating a light chop but with 1.5 knots of tide I was making reasonable progress.

Then the tide turned early and the wind went to F5-F6 and I was making < 3 knots over the ground due to the very short sea, wind and tide. In the end I gave up on that, set  a double reefed headsail and motored sailed at 45 degrees now making 4.5 - 5+ knots. I had been trying for east coast but that was not really practical so I went to Bagh na Doirline on the NW corner. 

It rained most of the way and my expensive, not that old, waterproof top proved it wasn't despite re proofing last winter so I will be reverting to last years cheaper replacement.

There is little chance of moving further south until Sunday or later and that will probably require motoring. But there are hints that an overnight passage might be completed with favourable winds for some hours, that is a decision for tomorrow (Saturday).

The anchorage after the rain stopped.

21 miles in 5 hours.

Click here for what happened on Saturday.

2024 June 20th Day 83, Loch Aline to Eilean Dubh

As noted in the previous post there were two options, both of which were going to need the engine due to headwinds, initially light but increasing. I decided to try for the Sound of Jura as the strong tides through there would get me furthest and potentially set up an earlier crossing of the north channel but, even starting at 03:20, with my speed reduced from 6 to 5 knots by all of the crud on the hull, it was still tight to get through the strongest currents before they turned adverse.

It was all daylight sailing, even with overcast skies I could easily see the length of the Loch, it being Scotland on the longest day, a day early this year.

Duart Castle at 05:15.

However there was a good fall back if early progress was slow with the unpredictable tides of the area, If I was not at a way point NW of Insh Island by 07:15 I could revert to "plan B" and carry on down the Firth to Loch Tarbert.

I made it with 25 minutes in hand after cutting a few corners in the good visibility and went down the Sound of Jura.

The tide changed a bit early (not unusual) and had not been as strong as hoped for, so I gave up on Gigha and went to the good anchorage as Eilean Dubh, the last sensible anchorage before Gigha, at yet another place called Sandaig Bay, that I had used in 2021.

Approaching over falls with escort.

Making 10 knots over the ground with the help of 5.5

knots of tide, occasionally more.

Playful Dolphin

With southerly winds sometime light and sometimes strong it was unclear what to do next, most likely a couple of nights at anchor or perhaps a dash to Gigha next day to get another 20 miles under my belt. I decided to not set an alarm to catch up on some sleep and to make the decision in the morning.

Eilean Dubh anchorage.

37 miles in seven and a half hours.

Lots of videos, most with dolphins.

Click here for Gigha.