2024 June 24th Days 88 - 90 Ballyhome Bay to Ardglass

An 05:20 start to reach Donaghadee Sound as the tide turned south, I was sailing as soon as I was out of the sound until approaching Ardglass.  The timing was good as I carried a little tide the short distance down Belfast Lough and entered the sound at slack water, or as slack as it gets, at the southern end it just switches almost instantaneously.

Donaghadee Sound at "slack" water.

Exiting Donaghadee Sound. 

The route from Bangor through the sound.

With the northerly wind is was a dead run for much of the way and a little too strong for the cruising chute as a "storm" spinnaker although towards the end I could have carried it but decided not to as the wind was quite variable.

Facebook post: I really, really dislike this mode, more specifically the agro setting it up with a 150% headsail, but the wind is gusting above what, these days, I consider a safe max for the cruising chute from the pole. But here I am on a dead run in F4-5 having just gone through Donaghadee Sound, but it is better than beating against a F5. Hopefully I’ll be at Ardglass fairly early this afternoon.

Note: for a downhaul I am using the spinnaker guy, this keeps the pole aft,
using the normal down haul it would be pulled forward, the sail would not set
properly and it would induce more roll. 

Lighter winds on the last leg no longer running, much better!

A narrow entrance, be sure to stay inside the laterals and
well outside of the cardinal mark on the approach.

And keep close to the pontoon if going to the back of it, more
work to get on to but more turning space when you leave.

I was on a berth at Ardglass just short of 13:26 with plenty of time to re-store, to leave the next day (Wednesday) but it was clear that this would not be a good idea with the wind forecast to initially very light then turning to the south and fairly brisk. As I had a lot of laundry needing doing I decided to stay put and sort that as the next chance will hopefully be Newlyn. I refuelled immediately before a much needed shower - no point in getting smelly from handling diesel and getting up a sweat after the shower!

34 miles in 8 hours.

The marina at low tide. When full screen it

works better slowed down a bit.

Thursday was a non-starter with winds forecast to be up to F7 later in the day, the forecast at the time of writing (Thursday lunch time) is not that positive for Friday:

Lough Foyle to Carlingford Lough - Strong wind warning

24 hour forecast: Southwesterly 4 to 6 veering westerly 5 to 7, occasionally gale 8 in north, decreasing 4 or 5 later. Slight or moderate, becoming rough in north, and occasionally very rough in far north. Rain or showers. Good, occasionally poor at first and moderate later.

Outlook for the following 24 hours: West 4 or 5, occasionally 6 at first, becoming variable 2 to 4. Mainly slight or moderate, but rough at first in far north and occasionally smooth later in south. Showers then fair. Good.

But the forecast models show that winds will probably be OK from late morning so the current plan is to leave then and sail to Dundalk Bay which should be OK for a short overnight stop as the brief northerly wind should only be a few knots, Dundalk would give a good start to get to The Skerries in the forecast light winds on Saturday. If that does not work a very late arrival at The Skerries (a 10 hour run at 4 knots) or an overnighter to the Dublin area. 

After that the wind should be generally favourable but rather brisk at times through Tuesday, the main problem might be finding somewhere to park overnight on Sunday when the forecast is for wind to briefly go the the NE at 15 knots, at this point there is no point in over thinking that as things are likely to change, but as a fall back there is always Howth or Dun Laoghaire (Dublin).

I took the enforced stop in warm weather (what a relief from the cold, thankfully it was warm and not very hot) to do some cleaning and do a couple of jobs.

Scrubbing the hull.

Despite some work in Stromness my best speed was still low and getting worse and, as well as I could calculate with infrequent engine use until Tobermory, the fuel consumption has steadily increased. The port side was regressing quickly and I spent over an hour on it before warping the boat to the finger on the other side of the bay. With easier access to the starboard to the skeg and rudder than at Stromness, this is what I found:

Facebook post: 3 coats of Seajet top of the range “Emperor “ in July 2023 “good for “up to” two years”, power wash in March and another coat, part scrubbed in the water in Stromness and this is what it looks like now. No wonder speed is down [and fuel consumption up] 🤬🤬🤬. Not impressed.

I spent a couple of hours cleaning the starboard side but still could not get all of it off, the problem being weed etc. was strongly attached and the "Scubis" cleaner is intended to remove slime and dead stuff. It was hard work.

I managed to achieve this on the skeg, the keel is untouched, the
rest I did what I reasonably could.

Hopefully it was worth the effort.

Fore hatch leak

I have been chasing minor leaks for a long time, the only remaining one was very minor from rain - just a drip now and then, and not much worse when taking waves over the bow but it seemed worth the effort and turned out to be about 7 hours work that helped pass the time.

The wood frame removed and a seemingly minor
issue bottom left.

But on closer inspection the section over one of
the hinges was loose, I suspect not properly secured
when the hatch was modified and new hinges fitted.

I carry an epoxy / fibreglass repair kit, epoxy glue, etc., so securing this was straightforward. It took longer to reprofile this and the frame to be a snug fit. 

It was also clear that there was quite a lot of "give" between the fibreglass hatch and the wood frame it only being secured in the 4 corners and with a pair of machine screws a third of the way along the sides. A couple of the blind holes for nuts used to secure the plastic "window" to hide in were not deep enough forcing a gap between the frame and hatch, those I deepened and I added a second pair of machine screws right through on the side, plus one in the centre of the front and a couple of screws on the back.

One problem is that I had less wide rubber strip than I thought so there is only a narrow strip along the back so its not fully sealed at the aft corners, hopefully any rain will drain forward through the drainage gutters and tubes. A wave over the front is likely to let some water in until I can get hold of more, the small chandlery here does not stock it. 

As an aside, the double sided tape used to attach this type of strip is normally a waste of time, silicone sealant (not glue) does a better job. 

The frame varnished and refitted to the hatch and the hatch to the boat.

Click for the Skerries.

2024 June 22nd Days 85 - 87 Bagh na Doirline to Druimyeon Bay then Bangor

Saturday morning:

The wind went round to the NW overnight making the anchorage a little uncomfortable, I was anchored well out as there were four other boats in the anchorage, I could have gone further in but single handed I prefer not to have boats behind me, it can be difficult to then get out as I have to be at the bow to raise the anchor and the boat will drift down wind (and / or tide) potentially into another boat. So as the wind was light and the tide good I made a quick hop around the north of the Island to a better protected anchorage in Druimyeon Bay.

Looking back at the Bagh na Doirline anchorage.

An interesting place to park your RV, on a ruined jetty at
the extreme north of Gigha.

Lots of boats in Ardminish Bay, the most popular stop on Gigha,
if you don't need the facilities, Druimyeon Bay is in my opinion
to be preferred.

Druimyeon Bay anchorage.

4 miles in 1 hour

The weather forecast for the next few days is not hopeful with headwinds, mainly light or moderate except perhaps on Tuesday  / Wednesday. And more hopefully tonight; I try and avoid overnight sailing, not because of the dark - except for the avoidance of pot buoys and often the cold, that is pleasant and even easier - but because of the length of time that it takes me to recover and to recharge my sleep bank, it is definitely harder than it was a few years ago.

However the window for westerly, or even a north westerly wind, has expanded since yesterdays forecast, now it looks to be turning westerly at c20:00 and to be favourable for most if not all of trip to Browns Bay, NI although on the down side the 07:00 forecast the sea North Channel is to be "smooth or slight, occasionally moderate", but that is not a major problem although rough would be around The Mull of Kintyre.

If I leave this evening there is a reasonable chance to make Browns Bay (Larne) in 12 - 13 hours, with Red Bay (further north) as an alternate if the doing is slow, and Bangor a possibility if I feel fit enough and the forecast southerly wind is no stronger than forecast and does not arrive early. I would then have Monday to recover and perhaps re-store. Then the tide south from Bangor through Donaghadee Sound is favourable from c 08:00 on Tuesday and 50 minutes later on Wednesday, allowing a reasonable start time an hour before.

Scenarios for a night crossing, calculated by the navigation
software and tabulated for reference, one of the times at
the corner of the TSS should match the actual and gives me
the course to steer without having to start up the PC in
the middle of the night. It also shows the best times to leave.

I have diesel for well over 250 miles but prefer to sail so if the forecasts do not change it looks like an evening start.

Saturday evening.

I left at 19:00 with  a southerly wind F4-5, with the domestic forecast predicting the wind should veer to the NW by c 20:30, then when I refreshed it 30 minutes later, it said 21:30 ☹️ so I was motoring for longer than anticipated and making a lot less than the 5 knots I had planned for the trip down the east coast of Gigha due to the head wind, the choppy sea and the crud on the hull. About halfway to the Mull of Kintyre the wind backed to the SE! This actually helped as the sea got calmer due to the shelter from the Mull.

On the revised time schedule, almost to the minute, the wind quickly veered to the NW at F4, being late to get round the Mull at or before slack water I kept the engine running but motor-sailed with the main and the genoa with one reef. Shortly after I picked up the strong S going tide and was making 8 knots, the engine and sails together generating enough power to over come the drag from the weed on the hull so I could make 6 knots through the water.

With this boost I got to the end of the TSS a little ahead of schedule, switched off the engine and rounded the Mull in good order. The Chute went up for a couple of hours but had to come down as the wind dropped and the engine went on, 20 minutes later the wind was back and up when the chute, but I should have waited because the wind kept increasing and within 10 minutes I was taking in down in 18 knots, quite a bit over the limit for the sail. I continued under sail for a while but had to put the engine on again as with lack of wind I was likely to be pushed north into the TSS. Half way over I was sailing again but after the previous problems I was reluctant to put the chute up and waited for almost an hour before doing so.

Off Red Bay the tide was running north faster than I could sail and I was heading almost W when heading S, so on went the engine again. I started sailing again until past “The Maidens” (pics to follow), then the wind disappeared completely and I motored on to the anchorage off Bangor arriving at 10:00.

A large, 270m IIRC, cruise liner heading for Belfast @ 03:55.

Approaching "The Maidens".

"The Maidens" 6 miles NNE of Larne @ 07:10.

Dinner got a little complicated, I had started prep for 2 portions of Chicken curry, then found that the chicken was off, smelling really bad; it was well within the sell by date but there was a small hole in the packaging, so I ended up with spag bol.

The Ballyholme Bay anchorage is quite popular with boats on
passage who don't want to pay for the marina, and as a Sunday
lunch spot.

Monday was a rest day but I spent much of it working on the boat.

With the strong southerly wind a lot of boats came

north on Monday, most arriving late afternoon on

the last of the tide through Donaghadee Sound. 

Most went to the marina but 3 came to the

anchorage within an hour, now there are four

of us, 2 Brits, 1 Irish and 1 Norwegian.  I think

all are single handed.

Ardglass on Tuesday and I hope that, with all the boats heading north, there will be a berth available, if not it is going to be a long sail to a safe anchorage and tinned food 🙁

Click here for Ardglass.

2024 June 21st Day 84, Eilean Dubh to Gigha

The wind was very light when I woke up so I decided to head for Gigha, if the tides behaved themselves I should be able to complete the short 20 mile hop before the tide turned adverse at 11:00 and it would shorten the leg to Ireland.

I was away at 07:00 and shortly afterward the rain started and the headwind steadily increased to the F3-5 creating a light chop but with 1.5 knots of tide I was making reasonable progress.

Then the tide turned early and the wind went to F5-F6 and I was making < 3 knots over the ground due to the very short sea, wind and tide. In the end I gave up on that, set  a double reefed headsail and motored sailed at 45 degrees now making 4.5 - 5+ knots. I had been trying for east coast but that was not really practical so I went to Bagh na Doirline on the NW corner. 

It rained most of the way and my expensive, not that old, waterproof top proved it wasn't despite re proofing last winter so I will be reverting to last years cheaper replacement.

There is little chance of moving further south until Sunday or later and that will probably require motoring. But there are hints that an overnight passage might be completed with favourable winds for some hours, that is a decision for tomorrow (Saturday).

The anchorage after the rain stopped.

21 miles in 5 hours.

Click here for what happened on Saturday.

2024 June 20th Day 83, Loch Aline to Eilean Dubh

As noted in the previous post there were two options, both of which were going to need the engine due to headwinds, initially light but increasing. I decided to try for the Sound of Jura as the strong tides through there would get me furthest and potentially set up an earlier crossing of the north channel but, even starting at 03:20, with my speed reduced from 6 to 5 knots by all of the crud on the hull, it was still tight to get through the strongest currents before they turned adverse.

It was all daylight sailing, even with overcast skies I could easily see the length of the Loch, it being Scotland on the longest day, a day early this year.

Duart Castle at 05:15.

However there was a good fall back if early progress was slow with the unpredictable tides of the area, If I was not at a way point NW of Insh Island by 07:15 I could revert to "plan B" and carry on down the Firth to Loch Tarbert.

I made it with 25 minutes in hand after cutting a few corners in the good visibility and went down the Sound of Jura.

The tide changed a bit early (not unusual) and had not been as strong as hoped for, so I gave up on Gigha and went to the good anchorage as Eilean Dubh, the last sensible anchorage before Gigha, at yet another place called Sandaig Bay, that I had used in 2021.

Approaching over falls with escort.

Making 10 knots over the ground with the help of 5.5

knots of tide, occasionally more.

Playful Dolphin

With southerly winds sometime light and sometimes strong it was unclear what to do next, most likely a couple of nights at anchor or perhaps a dash to Gigha next day to get another 20 miles under my belt. I decided to not set an alarm to catch up on some sleep and to make the decision in the morning.

Eilean Dubh anchorage.

37 miles in seven and a half hours.

Lots of videos, most with dolphins.

Click here for Gigha.

2024 June 19th Day 82,Tobermory to Loch Aline

With the tides wrong to go a long way I motored down the sound of Mull in light winds to better position myself for the next, long leg, which ever that might be.

Large scale felling was taking place just north of Loch Aline
which did no good at all to my Hay fever. This ship was loading
at a jetty 3 cables north of Loch Aline and running a shuttle service
to somewhere near Oban, she was returning from that direction
when I left next morning.

Forestry is not the only industry here, according to the chart
the jetty inside the Loch services a sand mine.

Entering Loch Aline.

The forecast is not good with light headwinds, again increasing later in the day, there were two main options, down the Firth of Lorn to anchor in Loch Tarbert, the tide being wrong to go through the Sound of Islay and to get to a protected anchorage the same day, or to go back the way I had come through the Sound of Jura, hopefully to Giga. Both would need an early start, the Sound of Jura a very early one and it would still be tight.

14 miles in three and a half hours.

Click here for the next leg

2024 June 18th Day 81, Eigg to Tobermory.

Another early start was required to get around Ardnamurchan Point with a following tide, the area had a reputation for difficult seas in strong winds, especially wind against tide as it would be if I left at a more civilised hour. 

It was another good but chilly sail, this one on a broad reach in a F5 under headsail only. It was a bit lumpy at the entrance to the sound but would have been a lot worse for the many boats, at least a dozen before I arrived and quite a few more later, leaving Tobermory heading north. They probably had an uncomfortable rounding of the point.

I arrived mid morning and lashed out on a pontoon berth, at almost double the price of a mooring, because of the amount of stuff to bring on board, 2 trips to the garage for 46 litres of diesel where I also bought their last cylinder of CampingGaz and three trips to the CO-OP. It also saved inflating the dinghy that would need to be stowed before crossing the North Channel if not before.

And when the heavy lifting was done I had a much needed shower.

Unsurprisingly for mid June, the Pontoons were filled by mid afternoon although there were plenty of moorings left

Ardnamurchan light

Starting the turn towards the Sound of Mull

I wanted to leave the next morning, or at least to move to a mooring, but where to go with a disappointing forecast of light headwinds winds getting stronger later the next day? 

The short list was Loch Aline and Loch Spelve, I have not been to the latter but decided on the former as the anchorages in Loch Spelve are a little deep and not as sheltered as Loch Aline; as things turned out the strong winds were not as strong as forecast, but better safe than sorry.

20 miles in five and a half hours.

Click here for Loch Aline

2024 June 17th Day 80, Sandaig Bay to Eigg.

Tobermory is rather a long way in one leg, I have done it both ways from / to the Sandaig area but I would arrive in the evening so would end up staying for an extra night, a stop in the Small Isles would break the journey and allow me to arrive in Tobermory in the morning, hopefully after people leave and before most arrive - during the summer (such as it is 😒) the place can become full, especially the pontoons. I decided on the south anchorage at Eigg with Muck as a fall back if there was a problem with the anchorage, unlikely given its size and the forecast but you never know, there could be some residual swell.

I had the sails up as I left the anchorage and had a  good sail in a F4-5 wind, although there was one nasty F6 squall that needed some quick reefing. Needless to say it was chilly, I am still waring my winter kit, iirc ever since I arrived in Scotland.

An interesting rainbow at the western end of the

Sleat peninsular.

Approaching the anchorage which is behind the point.

The anchorage was fine, easier to find a good spot than I thought from some of the descriptions, and empty when I arrived. I chose to anchor a good way out in 8m of water for an easy departure in the morning if other boats arrived, as they did.

The anchorage is completely exposed to the south,
Ardnamurchan lighthouse in the distance, 9.5 NM, 201 degrees.

Looking towards the northern anchorage (Poll nam Partan &
Gamisdale Pier), a much tighter anchorage, exposed to the east
but protect from the south. A couple of yachts anchored in the
space between me and the shore, there would have been
room for quite a few more.

The west side of the anchorage.

The anchorage

24 miles in 6 hours.

Click here for Tobermory.

2024 June 16th Day 79, Loch Gairloch to Sandaig Bay.

A cold damp sail but with wind all the way. Although I had the engine on to protect the batteries I sailed from the anchorage and apart from c half a mile under Sky Bridge did not use the engine until entering The Kyle Rhea.

The F5 wind soon increased to F6 as I came out of the Loch and generally remained there until a few miles short of Sky Bridge. Unfortunately it was almost directly behind and with a choppy, sometimes rough sea I tacked down wind, taking the helm for an hour or so as the autohelm had problems with a breaking sea just off of the stern, not dangerous, as it was coming from Stromness, but uncomfortable.

Despite loosing about a knot of speed due to a fouled hull I was well ahead of scheduled and put in one and a half reefs to the headsail (I was not using the mainsail) to slow down so as not to go through the Sky Bridge narrows with a strong adverse tide against the wind. I was still a bit early and it was a little choppy with over falls but not her serious as helpfully the wind dropped to F4 as I approached and further after going through.

A bumpy video passing Skye bridge, the vessel ahead was a glass bottomed
tourist boat that poked its bow out past the bridge and quickly turned back.

Unfortunately some water on the lens but it gives some idea.

Leaving Skye Bridge.

It was still early to head down the Kyle Rhea where the tide would turn fair at 16:00, I had thought to anchor but decided to go through a little early as it was a neap tide so wasted some time sailing up and down, naturally the wind came back up to F5-6 and even with just a little of the headsail showing I had to double back.

I entered at 15:30, I had a fair tide to the entrance and just beyond on an eddy, then a knot or so adverse most of the way through.

I had started to sail as I came out of the narrows but with gusty winds coming down from the mountains I gave up on that and motored the last 3 miles to anchor at Sandaig Bay where Gavin Maxwell lived with the otters documented in “Ring of Bright Water”. I was the first boat to arrive so got into position A although not exactly where I wanted at the wind which had been about 12 knots increased to 25knots as I started to drop the anchor and the boat dropped back quickly. 

The anchorage as the 25 knot wind dropped but

still quite windy.

Two hours later the wind dropped completely: 

44 miles in 10 hours.

Click here for Eigg

2024 June 15th Day 78, Loch Clash to Loch Gairloch.

A 04:15 start - much earlier than planned but I was awake, intermittent light rain stopped shortly after but stayed cloudy till mid morning. There was at most 3 knots of wind till 12:20 when the cruising chute went up. 

The Old Man of Stoer to Point of Stoer.

RFA Tidespring entering Loch Ewe, probably for fuel at Aultbe.
On the left the patrolling Coastguard emergency tug  is, perhaps,
looking for trade.

The chute came down 2 miles short of Rubha Reidh but went back up on the other gybe shortly after rounded the point. That lasted c 3 miles before the wind at about 13 knots started to back and I was heading towards land, the chute down and the Genoa was unfurled after gybing in 13 - 15 knots around Longa Island.

There are natural arches all along the coast for 5 miles south
of Rubha Reidh.

Flowerdale anchorage 

The Forecast for Sunday and Monday looks encouraging, F6 is unlikely through to Skye Bridge but could be a bit of an issue in the Sound of Sleat towards Tobermory. I’m hoping to get through the Kyle Rhea on Sunday - the tides are as good as they could be although relatively weak as it a neap tide.

The Minch - Strong wind warning (19:00 Saturday)

24 hour forecast: North or northeast 4 to 6, occasionally 3 at first. Slight or moderate, occasionally rough later in far north. Showers then fair, rain with fog patches for a time. Moderate or good, occasionally very poor.

Outlook for the following 24 hours: North or northeast 4 to 6. Slight or moderate, occasionally rough at first in far north. Mainly fair. Moderate or good, occasionally poor.

Click here for Sandaig Bay

2024 June 13th Days 76 and 77, Around Cape Wrath to Loch Clash.

I left at 05:15 to carry the tide to and hopefully beyond the Cape. If was frustrating and quite tiring sailing with the wind changing frequently then turning to the west towards the end despite a forecast of easterlies. 

I had the Cruising Chute up 3 times and flew if from the pole, as
the wind changed each time before giving up on it a couple of miles
from the Cape.

Cape Wrath, Duslic Rock left. Don't go there.

Cape Wrath Lighthouse

Cape Wrath in benign conditions.

After rounding the wind dropped and I found myself in a back eddy pushing me east and the engine had to go on to get out of it. I lost count of how many times the engine went on and off before I reached Loch Clash, a slight disappointment as I could have made it around Pointof Stoer if the wind had been as forecast, but it is a good anchorage I have not been to before and I was at anchor before two for a relaxing afternoon.

Heading towards Loch Clash which is hidden behind the Island
right of centre.

The Sadler yacht and it’s 2 crew arrived that evening, I suspect
if they can sort out their engine problem we may well meet again.

Loch Clash anchorage.

Loch Clash is quite a nice anchorage although over looked by several houses and an area people use to park their camper vans. The down side is that it is exposed to the south west and quite a lot of Kelp, when I arrived the wind was NW and the anchor was secure against going hard astern with the engine. 

Later the wind swung to the SE and I dragged, bringing up the anchor there was a lot of mature heavy Kelp on it with stems over an inch thick, I may have been anchored by it or the swinging wind may have unscrewed the anchor and on dragging picked up the Kelp. I suspect the former.

 

Anchor pro track: Initial position at the top with
dragging top left as the wind changed then increased.
Overnight plots below.

I re-anchored and had a piece full night in a brisk wind, in the morning a larger yacht to my south that probably anchored just before me, was quite some distance behind her former position in deep water, presumably also having dragged.

 

A day of Cyclonic winds.

33 miles in 8.5 hours.

Friday is uncertain, forecast strong easterly winds are not a particular problems but they may turn south or south easterly head winds which could be getting any distance.

Update Friday:

I woke at 04:00 and checked the domestic forecasts (that are updated frequently for the next few days) and the midnight inshore forecast and decided to go back to sleep, it is unlikely that I would get much past the Point of Stoer and, with the exception of the fishing port of Lochinver, the anchorages are rather restricted, either by wind direction or swinging room - an anchorage 100 yards wide is rather tight when the wind is forecast to swing most of the way around the clock. 

 

Another reason to stay put, it arrived a bit late but is
Forecast to last until early Saturday or a bit beyond.

Hopefully the forecast for tomorrow is correct showing northerly winds that should allow me to get the 45 miles to Loch Ewe or perhaps a little further before the wind increases overnight on Saturday when I will need a secure anchorage in a Northerly.

Click here for Loch Clash to Loch Gairloch.